Autumn Winter 2015 February 17 2015

Delusional Radical Bliss

For his Autumn/Winter ’15 collection, Shaun Samson researches Mid-Century Modernist Architecture in Los Angeles, and the musical sub-culture of the 1960’s.

Visually, the collection practices the dramatic minimal lines of Modernism through the work of famed mid-century architects. Black webbing grids the body like lines in Charles and Ray Eames’ Case Study House Number 8. Vinyl printed knits are reminiscent of John Lautner’s experimental usage of building materials such as laminated plywood beams. Silk chiffon cut-outs mimic the way Richard Neutra utilises panels of floor-to-ceiling windows in his VDL House to bring the outdoors in.

Samson uses dead stock Woolrich plaids for coats throughout the collection, and colours and fabrics are presented in a wholesome muted story of mustard, navy, maroon, and grey. Fur knotted scarves and gloves accent each look, while he utilises the apron shape for its simplistic silhouette that borderlines a masculine shift dress, complete with halter-top. They also act as a sandwich board for the collection statements; ‘Delusional, Radical, Bliss’ and ‘Adolescent, Precocious, Aspirational’ both describe the state of being in California, and the state of youth today.

Art Direction: Rob Myers

Fashion Director: Matthew Josephs

Art: Melissa Ruth Jordan

Pictures : Kim Weston-Arnold

Autumn Winter 2013 February 17 2015

Art Direction: Rob Myers

Fashion Director: Matthew Josephs

Spring Summer 2014 February 17 2015

Autumn Winter 2014 February 17 2015

Shaun Samson delves into pageantry and sport for his Autumn/Winter ’14 collection, presented as part of the NEWGEN MEN Pop-Up showroom at London Collections: Men, sponsored by Topman and the British Fashion Council.

School uniform and gym ensembles are interpreted with confident pleats, sweatshirt fabrics drape from necklines, and cozy wool cable knits have seamlessly rolled collars; elements that are traditionally more prevalent in womenswear. Pleated shirts are made in comfortable flannel and plaid fabrics, and add both a Scottish and grunge edge to the collection, which Samson describes as ‘harmoniously off’.

The graphics continue this ‘off’ theme with sweatshirts that are emblazoned with quotes one would find on the walls of a weightlifting room, but blurred so they look like an overlooked mistake. T-shirts feature wrestlers in mid-move, collaged with mirror and holographic vinyl backgrounds. Padded looks round off the collection, which is styled throughout with thigh-high hockey socks and floral garlands.

"I imagine an Eastern European Military Academy and the boys there listening to music when they’re in P.E. class’, Samson says of his inspirations for the collection. ‘Super masculine references in American sport culture I think become more androgynous and elegant when translated from a different part of the world…things are a bit peculiar and odd – but in a good way" -Shaun Samson

Art Direction: Rob Myers

Fashion Director: Matthew Josephs

Spring Summer 2015 February 17 2015

Illustrator Josh Gurrie c ollaborated with Samson on the prints, made from stickers placed on a sheet of white paper and blown up, abstracted and printed onto felting vests and across silk neckerchiefs. 

"Boy scouts telling stories and playing shadow puppets around a campfire in luxe printed scarves, the designer's signature felting and mink lanyards. Samson was a surprise addition to Fashion East this season and gave us a sneak peak of a pre-collection ahead of his #BEENTRILL#  collaboration, launching at Harvey Nichols." -Dazed Digital Magazine

"We were looking at camping, like, a summer camp. We were thinking of things that we'd use for survival but that was too literal, so we thought a lanyard would be a good thing that you would have. Maybe your keys, maybe your pocket knife, maybe a cell phone, maybe.. a pacifier. Is that what you call them here, pacifiers?" -Shaun Samson

Illustrator: Josh Gurrie

Art Direction: Rob Myers

Fashion Director: Matthew Josephs

Spring Summer 2013 February 17 2015

Art Direction: Rob Myers

Fashion Director: Matthew Josephs

Autumn Winter 2012 February 17 2015

Shaun Samson’s Autumn-Winter 2012 collection is an exploration of social and anti-social groups through sports teams and urban street tribes. Traditional sportswear fabrics such as mesh and sweatshirt fleece are finished in unconventional and unexpected ways with hand tacked collar facings, invisible zips and slashed necklines. These non-traditional menswear features are as Samson quotes: ‘interesting and beautiful finishes’. Latino influences are celebrated with calligraphic gothic lettering on oversized silhouettes, and Samson’s iconic needle punch felting is also presented. He continues fabric experimentation in this collection with faux fur by its use as appliqué, which obscures graphics in an exciting and playful way. Samson has specially teamed up with Timberland this season, whom have exclusively sponsored customised boots for the show using their Design Your Own function online

 "I wanted to continue that Latino street vibe of my last collection, and explore new fabrics. People know me by my felting technique, so I wanted to slowly transition from that process to something just as interesting. I decided to research faux fur because it's something that I usually shy away from. Once I started, I couldn't stop. I've become obsessed with it and seek it everywhere I go - from fur coats other people are wearing, to plush toys. I never realised how many different types and textures of faux fur there is out there. Once I familiarised myself with this new fabrication, I thought about how the 'Shaun Samson' boy would wear it in his world. My guy this season is very into sports jerseys and layering; a thug on the street looking fly. Sports mesh was the base to a lot of the faux fur. I worked with illustrator Joshua Gurrie who did an amazing job taking my urban Latino reference points and interpreting them into graphics and illustrations that I then appliquéd onto the mesh. The effect is really strong and playful, and it was interesting to see how the different furs reacted to the appliqué process. I liked how the fur obscured the sharp lines of the graphics. I enjoyed working with the long hair furs the best." -Shaun Samson

Art Direction: Rob Myers

Fashion Director: Matthew Josephs